Category Archives: 3D Printer

Marlin´s linear advance – Step by step

Recently I have read a lot about this feature of Marlin, Linear Advance, so I am going to show you what I have learnt some days ago.

What linear advance is?

Is a very interesting feature of Marlin, that maintain constant the pressure inside the nozzle.

Ok, and what is the meaning of that?

As the pressure is constant, the change of speed during the printing does not affect to the quality of it, so the critical areas are pinted better. You will see a huge difference, specially on the corners.

Another good thing, is that you have well configured this feature, the jerk is not important if you use Marlin 1.1.x, and you can print faster withour loosing quality on your prints.

The last advantage is that the dimensional accuracy is increased a lot. Continue reading

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Remote Control for ANET E-10 – Octoprint – Part I

Currently we are out of home the most part of the time, and I became to investigate how to control the printer remotely, and the best option for me is Octoprint.

What do I need?

The first thing is to have an internet connection at home 🙂

Another thing that you need id aRaspberry Pi, because we will install Octoprint on it, another good thing is to buy a camera to receive visual information from the printer. Continue reading

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Improvement package for Anet E-10: X axis and original E3D

You can see each improvement below this line:

X axis improvement

I think that this is an essential improvement, because is a two in one improvement. You have a more stable x axis structure, and you change the stock carriage.

You can download the STL files here, and has been made by a partner on Anet E-10 telegram group. He takes in consideration all our suggestions, one example, is to design the right holder with holes, that is very useful if you have a dipstick longer than the recommended one.

You can see the result here:

Mejora Anet Eje X

To mount this improvement on your printer you need:

  • 8 mm dispticks with a length of 334 mm (I had dipsticks of 355 mm)
  • Igus linear rods, this kind of rods have two advantages comparing with ball bearing rods, the first one is the noise and the second one is that Igus rods are self lubricated.
  • Two M4 screw of 6,50 mm lenght and two T-nuts
  • GT2 Timing Belt of 80 cm lenght.
  • One long M4 screw for the Z axis endstop.
  • One long M3 screw for the X axis belt tensioner and two more to fix the hotend to the new carriage, you also need two nuts.
  • Print the pieces of the design

Very important: The pieces are designed to use an E3D of 62 mm lenght, if you use anothe one, the layer fan could not make its work properly.

You can see bellow a calibration cube:

Cubo Anet Eje X

Original E3D v6 full metal

I have bought the hotend o a massive purchase organised on SpainLabs

I also bought a hardened steel nozzle, bout the price of it is very expensive.

When you mount it, you can feel the quality of its components. There are some details that I  love:

  • Molex connectors fot the fan and the thermistor, that allow a quick replace in case of issue.
  • Thermistor cartridge, is very good to forget the scare to put the thermistor out of place in the middle of a print.
  • PTFE clip holder, say goodbye to the neumatic plugs that are broken easily.

 

Anet E3d

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My first design – Support for mounting E3D v6 on Anet E-10

First of all I am crazy about E3D v6 hotend. For this reason, after watching the stock hotend mounted on the Anet E-10, I decided to design my first piece for 3D Printing.

What software have you used?

To design this object I used Tinkercad, that is a tool developed by Autodesk , is very easy to use and is cloud base, so you do not need to install any software on you computer.

The main idea of this software is to merge simple objects to create more complex things.

Tinkercad E3D para Anet e-10 Continue reading

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Marlin setup for Anet E-10

As I wrote you on a previous post, today I am going to show how I made Marlin setup for my Anet E-10 modified printer.

What I need to put Marlin on my printer?

First of all, you need Arduino IDE, I use currently version 1.8.5 and you can download it here.

Another important thing you need is Marlin, and you can download it here. Setup explained below this lines is related to 1.1.6 version.

In my case, because I use a big LCD screen I also need U8GLib to setup the screen, and you can find it here. Continue reading

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Electronics change on Anet E-10

After checking that stock electronics on Anet is not good enough for me, I have used a GT2560 motherbard to substitute the stock mainboard.

Why you want to change electronics?

As you can see on the image below, Anet board only comes with one potenciometer to control stepper drivers.

Electronics Anet

This causes, for example, that you cannot set the intensity for the extruder motor, and this is the main cause of loosing steps. Continue reading

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Anet E-10: First printings

After the previous post about the asembly of Anet E-10, today I am writeing a new post about the first printings that I have made.

Anet E-10 start up

The start up was vey simple comparing with the delta one. Hotbed leveling is very easy with this kind of printers.

I have some problems to put the filament inside the hotend, but once that it was inside the printer works perfectly.

The printer comes with Cura and Repetier software inside the included pen drive incluido, but I use Simplify 3D and I found a profile for the Anet on internet, and I have used it.

Another thing that surprised me is the fault of a firmware to update the motherboard, because the siftware is already installed on it.

Continue reading

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Anet E10: The assembly

Finally Anet E10 has arrived!

The delivery date was the last planned day, 15 labour days from the purchase.

General assembly

The printer assembly is quite easy to do. It comes almost pre assembled but I had some problems because it was my first cartesian printer.

Anet E-10

Twist of Z axis stepper motors plugs

As you can see on all the reviews, the connectors come looking inside the printer. To fix that, simply elevate the horizontal part of the frame and then unscrew a couple of screws, and then twist the motors in order to set the connectors outside.

Upper frame fitting

This part of the assembly took me some time, because is hard to understand some things of the cartesian printer when you are used to use a delta one. To make this step properly, simply move up Z axis enough to release the pression on the bottom part of the frame, in order to align the screws with the holes. Continue reading

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Improvements for Anet E-10 (Fan Shroud, Hotbed protector and more)

I have bought a new 3D printer, Anet E-10, and I will write a new post about it soon.

You can buy it here and with the dicount code ANET10 the price is very affordable.

The printer is new, so, why you put some improvements on it?

The printer is ok, but there are a hugh amount of users that already have ir, and they are designing a lot of improvements every day in order to improve the quality of printing.

Today I am going to show you one package of improvements, and in a few days I will show another one. Continue reading

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